9 questions to ask a cobbler before a resole

Most bad resoles happen because the customer and the cobbler had different jobs in mind. A five-minute email before you ship can prevent that. Here's what to ask, and why each question matters.

1. "Can you resole this construction, and how will you do it?"

Name the construction if you know it (Goodyear welt, stitchdown, Blake, cemented), or send a photo of the sole edge. A shop should be able to tell you whether it will restitch to the existing welt, replace the welt, or cement the sole on. Blake-stitched shoes need a Blake machine, and not every shop has one. If you're unsure what you have, read is it worth resoling? first.

2. "Which sole do you recommend, and which do you actually stock?"

Ask for the exact sole name and model, not "a Vibram sole". The same boot looks and wears very differently with a lug sole, a wedge or a leather sole. If you want a factory-original look, say so. Some shops keep brand parts: LaRossa runs FootJoy and Sebago restoration programs, and Daub's says it is an authorized repair center for brands including Asolo, Zamberlan, Lowa and Red Wing.

3. "Do you resole on a last?"

Resoling on a last helps a boot keep its original shape and fit. Drew's and B. Nelson both say they resole on lasts. If a shop doesn't, that isn't automatically bad, but ask how they keep the fit and the toe shape from changing.

4. "What happens if you find more damage once it's apart?"

Insoles, welts and heel bases are often worn out in ways you can't see until the old sole comes off. Ask whether the shop will contact you before doing extra work, and roughly what that work would cost. Tulsa Shoe Rebuilders, for example, says on its site that it charges extra for a new welt or for replacing a man-made heel base with stacked leather.

5. "Is the quote final, and does it include return shipping?"

Shops quote in different ways. Some give a firm menu price, some a "close estimate" after inspection, and some only a range. Ask whether return shipping, insurance and any cross-border fees are included. Return shipping alone can be significant. The Cobbler, for example, publishes $75 per package for return shipping to the US.

6. "What's your current turnaround, not counting shipping?"

The times posted on websites go out of date. On the dates we checked, shops in our directory listed anything from a few business days to a 12-week lead time. If you need the boots back by a certain date, say so before you ship.

7. "Will you keep or replace the heel, and the cork?"

These details affect comfort and fit. Replacing the cork fill on a welted boot changes how it feels underfoot until it breaks in again. A new heel at a different height changes your stride. Ask what the shop will do by default.

8. "How do you want it packed and labelled?"

Every shop has its own rules. Rock & Resole asks you not to use shoeboxes or plastic bags for climbing shoes. The Rubber Room asks for no packing peanuts. Almost every shop wants your name, phone number and order number inside the box. Follow the shop's rules so your parcel doesn't get delayed.

9. "Who's liable if the parcel is lost?"

Many shops say clearly that they aren't responsible for parcels lost on the way to them. LaRossa, for example, insures return packages only on request. Buy tracking and insurance for the inbound trip, and ask whether the return trip is insured.

Save the answers

Keep the email thread and your photos. If the result isn't what you agreed, a written record of the sole, the method and the price makes the conversation much easier. Most shops would rather fix a problem than argue about it.